A Dodge Durango won't start if the battery is dead, no fuel is getting to the engine, or an electrical system failure has occurred. If it runs above idle then dies at idle it is the battery.
I believe what your problem is: you have probably placed the leads to incorrect positions. The leads have to be in exactly the correct order. Even mixing two will probably lead to an engine that will not run (unless you have some V16 engine which may work with two leads exchanged).Now you have two options. Either see somewhere what the correct connection is. If you have a four-cylinder engine, they are typically marked '1', '2', '3' and '4'. The distributor may or may not have the numbers marked on it. If it doesn't, I suggest searching for repair manual for your car, as that may have the connection order.Then you will need to know which cylinder is '1', which is '2' etc.
In longitudal inline engines, 1 is usually the front and the highest number is the back, but it may be different in some cars. For transverse engines, I would guess '1' is the leftmost when looking from front of the car rearwards (please correct this if I'm wrong, this may have exceptions). V engines may have slightly more complex cylinder numbering.An alternative is to try.
4-cylinder engine has 24 different arrangements for the leads (factorial of number 4). If you mark them A, B, C and D, the orders are:. ABCD, ABDC, ACBD, ACDB, ADBC, ADCB. BACD, BADC, BCAD, BCDA, BDAC, BDCA.
CABD, CADB, CBAD, CBDA, CDAB, CDBA. DABC, DACB, DBAC, DBCA, DCAB, DCBASo, by marking with A-D, you can try all 24 arrangements with that list.
Model Year - 1999-Make/Brand - Dodge Durango-Complete Model - SLT-Engine/Transmission/4WD/2WD - 5.9 v8 SOHC 4x4-Country (market) the car was sold in - USAI have a really weird issue and I am about at my wits end with it. Basically last Wednesday my 99 Durango started surging and dropping RPM's when idling and losing power/gas mileage when actually driving. Didn't matter if the A/C was on or off. It would actually die on some occasions and threw an engine code P0122 which said low voltage to TPS. Here are the steps I took from this point:1.
Used Multimeter to test load from PCM to TPS while my friend pushed the gas pedal. Everything checked out from the manuals I had read online.2.
Replaced TPS4. Cleaned IAC Valve (Had quite the carbon build up)5. Replaced MAP sensor6. Reset PCM, reseated all 3 connections into it7. Tested Alternator with mutli meter (Thanks ETCG for the video on that)8. Tested Battery, even though it is brand new9.
Swapped out air filterNone of this fixed it and at this point I was at a loss so I took it to a local shop to have them 'Diagnose' it for $114. They retested the voltage going into the TPS, tested for Vacuum leaks and various other things. They called back and said clogged injectors and bad IAC Valve was my problem. So a gentle $600 later the car idles fine now.unless you turn on the A/C, then the problem persists.
They have been diagnosing it for about 4 days now and they have no idea why it is doing it. Hoping you guys can tell me something. I'm leaning towards a faulty PCM but if you guys have any other ideas that would be great. Thanks in advance.Please or to join the conversation. Well, the shop confirmed it was the PCM at this point, after 2 weeks of looking at it. They said there were no electrical/grounding issues or vacuum leaks and they swapped out the MAP, TPS, TB, Battery and Alternator just to be sure for testing. They said there were no continuity errors in the wiring between the TPS and PCM.
However, they wanted nearly $800 for a PCM, install and what they called a 'relearn'. So I just took the car back home.
Im buying a PCM today myself and we will see where that goes. Basically now the car will idle (very rough) around 700rpm's, then jump up to nearly 2000+ and the radiator fan will go nuts until you turn the car off or wait about a minute. I made sure all the connectors to the battery were good and I can't find any damaged or exposed wires myself. So hopefully the new PCM will work. If not I am probably just going to scrap it. Which sucks because even though it is an older vehicle, it only has 92k on the odometer and is in excellent shape outside of this one issue.Please or to join the conversation. The PCM came pre-programmed from autocomputerexchange.com.
I installed the PCM today at about 10:00am. I have since let it idle/driven for about 45 minutes with no CEL and no major RPM fluctuation. It was jumping from 700 to 2,000+ and staying there for minutes at a time. Plus the DTE (mpg) meter is showing correct now. However, I still do have a rough idle at about 700rpm. The RPM gauge jumps +/- 50 rpms constantly. Granted, it is a 17 year old vehicle so I don't expect it to be perfect.
I got to looking at the distributor and it looks like it was the original one from 1999 so I am replacing the Distributor, rotor, wires and plugs this weekend to see if it will fix the rough idle. But to make a long story short, the PCM seems to have fixed the P0122 and RPM jumping error.so far at least. Fingers crossed lol.Please or to join the conversation. Duffman667 wrote: The PCM came pre-programmed from autocomputerexchange.com. I installed the PCM today at about 10:00am. I have since let it idle/driven for about 45 minutes with no CEL and no major RPM fluctuation. It was jumping from 700 to 2,000+ and staying there for minutes at a time.
Plus the DTE (mpg) meter is showing correct now. However, I still do have a rough idle at about 700rpm.
The RPM gauge jumps +/- 50 rpms constantly. Granted, it is a 17 year old vehicle so I don't expect it to be perfect. I got to looking at the distributor and it looks like it was the original one from 1999 so I am replacing the Distributor, rotor, wires and plugs this weekend to see if it will fix the rough idle. But to make a long story short, the PCM seems to have fixed the P0122 and RPM jumping error.so far at least. Fingers crossed lol.ok good so far.